The Lonely Planet says that the train from Kandy to Haputale is a minor feat of British 19th century engineering. We think it is a major one. It’s amazing! It clings onto mountain faces more or less from the start giving the most incredible views that change throughout the five hour journey from rolling tea hills to ridiculously dense, dark pine forests surrounded by mist. The rock faces, sometimes just inches away from us, amplified the metal train noises. In contrast, clearings with waterfalls restored the natural peace.
Our third class reserved carriage was comfortable but full of tourists. We got over that pretty quickly once the views distracted us!